Speight Buttress is not often (if ever) visited by persons purely interested in climbing on rock. Being located at the head of Greenlaw Creek, on the northern flank of MT SPEIGHT (2116m), it hardly attracts day visitation (being a six hour tramp in from Klondyke Corner). Most climbers prefer to base themselves at the old Greenlaw Hut site.
From the old hut site ascend the spur between Greenlaw Creek and Harper Creek, following the ridge until a snowfield is reached underlying the North Ridge of the mountain. The buttress is about 250m tall, and like other nearby peaks (Mt Harper - West Face) tends to be blessed with some of the best quality rock in the Park (this being all relative of course!). The approach to the buttress crosses the permanent snow-field to a point directly below the peak, hence it is advisable to carry both ice axe and crampons.
All routes (possibly three) tend to maintain vertical direct lines (Grade 8-14) towards the ridge near the summit. After two or three pitches the steepness diminishes, scrambling on loose rock follows. Descend the North Ridge to the col at the head of the snow-field.
MT HARPER WEST FACE
The West Face of MT HARPER (2222m) has surprisingly good rock. The shortcoming being, that it hasnít had enough ascents to dislodge the numerous chockstones and loose scree jammed in itís rifts and cracks. The best approach is from White Col (1748m) sidling out northwards until standing beneath the chosen route. Most of the more obvious lines provide plenty of "Cam" breaks. The going towards the South Ridge gets a little scrappy, but otherwise provides some good cranking. The face isnít recommended after fresh snow as airbourne avalanches randomly wash the entire wall.