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The central buttress starts directly above where the rock outcrops protrude lowest into the screes (easy slab start). This route is best if you want rock and route that is undeviating in quality (ie. OK rock with no major hassles). The overall rock grade is about 8-12, tending to increase the higher you get. The final pitch throws in its crux, an overhang (Grade 14), at its beginning. This overhang is actually avoidable, by moving true left, an option when fear catches you up. Above the pitch, dig your way through the shingle towards the rock spike near the summit.
The right-hand buttress deteriorates into rotten, loose rock on its second, third, and fourth pitches, requiring some navigational work near the top. It does retain its inclined slab aspect through most of its height. Be very aware of loose stratum and hanging scree shoots.
Some good cranking can be had on other slabs and smaller buttresses in the locale. The buttresses under the PHIPPS PEAK (1965m) South Ridge also provide some “airy” experiences that can finalise in an ascent of the peak.
PHILISTINE BUTTRESS
Situated in the Upper Otira Valley, Philistine Buttress is accessed by taking the Otira River track from Highway 73. From the car-park walk up the track to the footbridge (20min). The buttress stands directly at the top of the screes.
Its true height of about 200-250m is concealed by its terraced nature. The rock quality tends to be quite poor with many zones of heavily fractured, loose rock. The routes are, as to be expected, unmarked, but basically follow any number of lines (cracks, gullies) up through the six or seven pitches. Changing routes mid-crank never seems to be a problem. The easiest routes (Grade 8-14) are to the east on the buttress wall, slowly increasing in difficulty as you work your way up the Otira Valley towards the second creek / avalanche gully. To climb anything further upstream on the "black" rock will lead to exciting top outs on slabs covered in loose shingles (these are winter ice routes). Finding a piton and abseil sling enroute generally means you are about to use it, and your belayer isn't going to appreciate your route finding skills very much longer, but that's adventure for you!
On reaching the scree / snow shelf below the East Ridge of MT PHILISTINE (1967m), sidle under the ridge buttresses to gain the easy slopes which ascend the mountain (an ice axe & crampons may be required).
To descend, sidle to the true left across slab and scree slopes, then down through the "green" bluffs to the saddle between Mt Philistine and Warnocks Knob. Cross some scree and tussock towards the Upper Otira, then descend a long scree slide and track to return to the footbridge.
Stone fall is a major feature of this area, and all parties anywhere near a cliff are advised to don a helmet and think thin!
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