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THE FACES

The CROW FACE of MT ROLLESTON Low Peak (2212m) being south facing, usually provides some excellent steep ice climbing with several routes of 120 - 400 metres in length being available usually between mid-July to mid-September.

The PHILISTINE BUTTRESS FACE leading to the Rolleston Glacier under MT PHILISTINE (1967m) yields some of the most fanciful, come nightmarish routes around.  One might be excused for thinking you are swinging off Ben Nevis in bonny Scotland with such names as "Zero Gully" "Point Five Gully" and "Green Gully" describing many of the rotten rock and ice routes along its flank.  Needless to say it just doesn't compare to its northern brother.  When the ice is good it is fair climbing with little decent protection (take more rock-pro than expected), and it is only good for one day at a time.  Beware of airbourne avalanches dropping over the cliffs.  Descend via the Rolleston Ridge or head towards Warnocks Knob. 

ICE CLIFFS & WATERFALL ICE

For the desperate, tucked away under the shadow of MT MURCHISON (2408m), the White Glacier provides an interesting distraction on those very clear, frozen winter days with its 50m ice fall.  The true left of the wall is the only part that may not fall on you from great heights, being a frozen cascade of seracs. Inclines of up to 70 ° can be contrived.  Beware of snow covered Bergschrunds and the lake at the bottom. In the same neighbourhood the west wall of the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier, beneath the 2180m point furnishes a tall slab of blue ice. Inclines generally vary from 45°  to 60°, giving a good practice session.  Both sides of this wall are washed by avalanches from  winter to late spring. 

The only waterfalls known to freeze blue on occassions are Waimakariri Falls at the head of the Waimakariri Valley, and the true left of the 60m fall at the outflow of Lake Mavis in the Mingha catchment. Good luck, their both a long way in!


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