12.4 MT MURCHISON (2408m) may be reached from the upper Wilberforce River via Denas Creek, by traversing upstream to a point directly below the summit rocks. A large scree leads up to a long steep couloir which meets the North Ridge not far from the summit. This route is fraught with dangers - avalanche, rock fall, and really rotten rock to name but a few.

It is a seasonal route with a very narrow window of safe conditions (typically August to December - daily conditional). Descent is generally made over Kahutea Col, down the Kahutea Glacier (sticking true left), then sidling left diagonally down to gain the slabs and grassed slopes into Weka Stream. (Grade. 3)

12.5 MT SPEIGHT (2116m) may be gained from the head-waters of Burnet Stream. Ascend the scree / snow-slope north of the creek that drains Speight’s West Face. A steep pitch joins the permanent snow-slope (beware of bergschrunds) that leads to the prominent col north of Mt Speight. Follow the ridge to the summit. (Grade. 1+)

LOWER WAIMAKARIRI RIVER

12.6 THE DOME (1938m) can be approached via Douglas Stream or Red Beech Stream near the Cora Lynn siding on the Midland Railway (northern side of the Waimakariri River). Both of these approaches are very difficult in terms of waterfall, bluff and thick vegetation obstacles below the treeline.

Once out of the jungle on Douglas Stream a very steep rock amphitheatre is encountered. A steep scree on the true-left, adjacent the bush, gives access to the steep Southeast Ridge of THE DOME. Alternatively sidle across under THE DOME to the gully above the waterfalls and ascend its West Ridge. In winter this area is avalanche prone. (Grade. 2-)

The head of Red Beech Stream leads to easy scree slides that access the main ridgelines of THE DOME. (Grade. 1+)

Attempt these routes as ascents only! (ie. Don’t come down them!)