10.7 THE PYRAMID (1608m) can be obtained by ascending the vegetated spur opposite Sudden Valley Biv, or via the stream 1.2km further downstream. Sidle up and southwards on scree once clear of the greenery to the main ridgeline. This ridge though less than magnificent, is short, with the peak being reached
in good time. (Grade. 1+)
10.8 MTS WILSON (2035m) and SCOTT (2009m) are climbed via each other from the Polar Range. The Southeast Ridge of MT WILSON can be gained by ascending a steep scree gully 2km upstream of the Sudden Valley Biv. Aim for the deep notch just north of the 1853m point. The ridge is then followed to the peak (the East Edwards side provides by-passes). A steep scree / snow slope between the peaks also gives good climbing access from the head of Sudden Valley. (Grade. 1+)
10.9 MT WILSON (2035m), MT SCOTT (2009m), THE DOME (1938m) TRAVERSE. Ascend (route 10.8), leaving your un-necessary overnight equipment on the col just north of the 1853m point. Ascend MTS WILSON and SCOTT using the rotten rock ridge from the col (Grade. 1+). Recovering your equipment, it is best to sidle high on the screes true-left of East Edwards River to avoid the following 2km of loose, rotten
ridgeline. A camp below the 1669m saddle is the best option. Regain the ridge at this point, climbing the buttressed face onto THE DOME.
Easy walking follows onto the 1920m summit, dropping true-right to a very small “green” tarn. Continue sidling to the head of the very large scree slope, descending directly to the Edwards River (route 9.9). (Grade. 1)
11. UPPER TAIPO RIVER
The mountains of the Campbell Range adjacent, and at the head of Julia Creek provide the climber with a series of scree and snow peaks. More severe routes are available onto the peaks of the Mc Laurin Range. A high camp in the basins at the head of Julia Creek is highly recommended. Travel up Julia Creek on its true right (use the old miners track if you can find it from the Mary Creek swing-bridge).
JULIA CREEK HEADWATERS
11.1 MT WALCOTT (1808m) may be climbed from Julia Hut in one very long day. Ascend the rocky side-creek 800 metres upstream on Julia Creek, following screes at its source to join the rolling hills of the Campbell Range near the 1673m pinnacle. The ridge is followed northwards for 2km to the summit. All obstacles are avoided by sidling on scree slopes east of the ridge. (Grade. 1+)
11.2 MT AXIS (1979m) should be tackled from a high camp in the basins below the Axis Glacier. In summer the Southeast Ridge provides an ice-free route onto the summit. The ridge is obtained by sidling to it from the head of a small creek to its west. The ridge is loose and contains several short steps. (Grade. 2-)
|