9.8 MT OATES (2041m) : A more direct approach is by the stream and basin near Taruahuna Pass. Climb the spur opposite Amber Col keeping true left of the stream, then sidle northwards under MT OATES, slowly climbing towards its North Ridge above several large guts. The peak is gained easily from here via (route 8.1). This is also a good winter route to link both Edwards and Mingha Valleys via Lake Mavis. (Grade. 1+)
9.9 THE DOME (1938m) is climbed from the lower Edwards Valley by a scree slide (use the true left gutter) about 2km above the first gorge (1km below the East Edwards junction). Other approaches can be made through the forest opposite Klondyke Corner. First ascent by J. Gill and R.S. Odell, 14 December, 1930. (Grade. 1)
9.10 THE SPIKE (1440m) and MT WILLIAMS (1718m) can both be approached via the long, very steep, dangerous, scree shoot just downstream of the East Edwards River confluence. This shoot is known locally as the "Gunbarrel Scree". A quick observation of the riverbed should leave you in no doubt as to why! Climb the scree upwards & southwards into a narrow gut joining the saddle between the two peaks. Both
summits can be climbed on rotten rock from this point. Wear a helmet, and keep looking up! A dangerous route. (Grade. 2-)
LAKE SALLY APPROACHES
MT FRANKLIN (2145m) can be climbed by several routes from the Lake Sally basin. Lake Sally is at best difficult to approach and a high camp is strongly recommended under the knoll near it’s outflow. Access to the lake is gained by the ridge and loose bush covered slopes south of the stream which drains it, from the West Branch of the Otehake River. Alternatively ascend the slopes on the north side of the same stream, sidling around the base of the East Ridge to reach the lake. Eastern descents from MT FRANKLIN tend to be very steep, natural anchors allowing abseils directly onto the snowfield are available. Under winter conditions the following routes can all be fraught by overhanging cornices.
9.11 Climbing routes commence with the steep, jagged East Ridge which merges into the East Face of the mountain. Traverse northwards to gain the steep gullies ascending to the summit. (Grade. 2)
9.12 From the permanent snow field north of the East Ridge, three very steep couloirs gain the summit directly. These all tend to provide better climbs during the frozen winter months. (Grade. 2+)
9.13 The Northeast Ridge is gained by sidling under its southern flank and climbing the first possible gully to its crest. The ridge is followed cautiously to the summit. (Grade. 2+)
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