9. EDWARDS VALLEY
EDWARDS VALLEY PEAKS
9.1 The three peaks of the Polar range, MTS BOWERS (1891m), WILSON (2035m) and SCOTT (2009m), are reached from almost anywhere in the upper Edwards Valley, and can be traversed from either end of the range. Mt Bowers and Wilson were first ascended by E. Wilson and A. Anderson, December 1930. Mt Scott was first ascended by J.Gill, J.Wilson and E. Brough, December 1930. (Grade. 1+)
9.2 MT SCOTT (2009m) may also be gained from Amber Col. Reach the col from the Edwards River by ascending the scrubby spur on the true-right of the stream that drains it. Climb steeply from the col to join the Polar Range, then follow easy ridgeline to the summit of MT SCOTT. (Grade. 1+)
9.3 MT BOWERS (1891m) is climbable via a scree slide from the East Edwards Valley. (Grade. 1)
9.4 FALLING MOUNTAIN (1901m) at the head of the Edwards Valley near Taruahuna Pass, is climbed by its Southwest Ridge. Other routes may be taken from near Taruahuna Pass and Tarn col on the Otehake side of the mountain. Beware of major rockfall problems across the entire Northwest Face. First ascent by C.E. Fenwick, H.F. Baird and H. McD. Vincent, 10 December, 1930. (Grade. 1)
9.5 MT WILLIAMS (1718m) is an easy climb from Williams Saddle near the Edwards Hut. Williams Saddle is gained by climbing the tussock / scree slope opposite Edwards Hut, aiming for the gap between the two prominent rock buttresses then sidling to the saddle. (Grade. 1)
9.6 The Southwest Ridge over THE SPIKE (1440m) is very steep. The route includes several abseils over jagged gendarmes, and some loose inclined slab climbs. In winter other joyful obstacles include a corniced summit cap. Start up the steep creek gully, about 200m up the Edwards River from its junction with the
Mingha Valley (this route was originally known as the “razorback” route for Mt Williams before The Spike was named). (Grade. 2)
9.7 MT OATES (2041m) may be reached along the ridge which leads northwards from Williams Saddle. The saddle is gained by climbing the tussock / scree slope opposite Edwards Hut, aiming for the gap between the two prominent rock buttresses then sidling to the saddle. From the saddle follow the easy ridge northwards, sidling under its gendarmes and outcrops on the eastern side, regain the very narrow ridge ascending it to the summit of high peak. (Grade. 1+)
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