then sidle into the head of the creek. First ascent by A.C. Snowden and A.S. Ahnfeldt, November 1930. (Grade. 1+)
8.8 MT RUSSELL (1868m) may be approached via the heavily wooded spur that ascends from the Deception River. This spur is on the true-left of the stream that drains the amphitheatre under it’s summit. "Very ugly" best describes this route. First ascent by H. and A. Jackson, December 1930. (Grade. 1+)
8.9 MTS RUSSELL (1868m) and TARAPUHI (1605m) are approached from the lower Deception Valley by ascending Midday Creek and its slide. Once clear of the scrub, continue climbing towards TARAPUHI, or bear south towards the saddle above Spray Creek and then onto MT RUSSELL via one very exposed section of rotten ridgeline. Both mountains can be reached by a long traverse that leads from MT FRANKLIN (2145m), a very difficult / horrendous route. From the saddle above Spray Creek a short, very steep, pitch can be climbed on the Otehake side towards MT TARAPUHI. (Grade. 2-)
8.10 MT STUART (1906m) : Ascend the ridge opposite Goodluck Creek, reaching the knoll north of PHIPPS PK (This is a bit of a bash!). Traverse through the saddle and ridge to MT STUART. Alternatively an ascent of PHIPPS PK (1965m) can be made from this same point. (Grade. 1+)
8.11 MT FRANKLIN (2145m) can be climbed in winter to late spring by reaching the head of the Deception River opposite Goat Pass Hut. Scree / snow slopes head through the lower bluff to reach the steep snow-field (Avalanche danger!) below the 1980m Southwest Ridge rocks. In a normal season three 150 metre high couloirs gain the Southwest Ridge. Continue along ridge for one kilometre to gain the col separating Lake Anna and Sally. Ascend the steep South Ridge to the summit. Return via (route 8.7). (Grade. 2)
8.12 MT FRANKLIN (2145m) : The Southwest Ridge can be ascended from opposite Goat Pass Hut utilising the obvious deep gully and notch. A generally straightforward ascent joins the col above Lake Anna, then climbs the steep South Ridge to the summit. (Grade. 2-)
8.13 MT OATES / MT FRANKLIN ridge is a very long journey from Goat Pass and would be better tackled from a camp near Lake Mavis. Gain the ridge along the Main Range above the lake, following it’s initially broad back to the second knoll (1864m). From here the ridge narrows taking a steep approach to the summit of the next buttress (1876m). The ridge turns west over the exposed slabs above Lake Sally and the deep gut of the upper Deception, climbing steeply over broken ground to join the Southwest Ridge. From
here descend to the col above Lake Anna then climb the steep South Ridge to the summit. Be well prepared for a forced bivy as it is a very long day outing! (Grade. 2)
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