the 1978m buttress and turn south to the summit. This ridge is heavily fortified and some handline descents may be necessary. Beware of the soft snow cornice to the east in winter. (Grade. 1+)
8.2 Sidle around Lake Mavis at it’s outflow and join the West Ridge of Mt Oates via the obvious long gully between the West Face and a prominent buttress. Much of the West Ridge can be avoided by sidling below its south side to a col near the summit. (Grade. 1+)
8.3 The 320 metre West Face of MOUNT OATES (2041m) rises directly above Lake Mavis. A line can be taken from the northern corner of the lake, diagonally to the true left, directly to the summit. Another more direct route is possible from below the summit, climbing on reasonable rock up through several exposed corners and fissures. In winter / late spring, slab and point release avalanches are commonplace across the
breadth of the face. In any season watch for stonefall and general shrapnel spinning off the North Ridge. (Grade. 1+)
8.4 MT OATES South Summit (2054m) can be reached either by utilising the scree / snow slopes south of the North Peak (under West Ridge), or by an exposed descent (20m abseil) via the joining ridge between the peaks. It can also be reached via the long ridge from Williams Saddle. (Grade. 1+)
8.5 MT OATES (2041m) may be reached directly from the Mingha River by climbing the spur on the northern side of Kennedy Falls. From the basin above the falls, ascend the scree slide and couloir to reach the joining ridge between the summits. Climb the loose faces from here. (Grade. 1+)
8.6 MT OATES (2041m) and MT WILLIAMS (1718m) can also be reached from the mid Mingha River, by climbing (bashing) the steep bushy spur almost opposite the southern end of the Dudley Knob track. This route joins the Mt Williams North Ridge near a prominent buttress. MT WILLIAMS is an easy climb from here. Mt Williams was first ascended by E.Wilson, July 1930 using this route. (Grade. 1)
To reach MT OATES descend to Williams Saddle then follow the easy ridge northwards, sidling under it’s gendarmes and outcrops on the eastern side, regain the narrow ridge, ascending it to the summit of the high peak. First ascent by Miss B.H. Blunden, John Pascoe and B.A. Barrer, 15 February 1931. (Grade. 1+)
DECEPTION RIVER
MT FRANKLIN (2145m) is a very imposing pinnacle of rock. On many occasions it still manages to pierce the notorious West Coast cloud (something of a redeeming quality). It is by far the best climb east of Arthur’s Pass.
8.7 MT FRANKLIN (2145m) from the Deception River is normally climbed via the Good Luck Creek basin by the West Ridge, or from the col above Lake Anna via the steep South Face and South Ridge (an excellent route). The West Ridge can be dangerously corniced under winter conditions, making it extremely hard to negotiate. To reach the basin, ascend the slide upstream of Upper Deception Hut to the scrub line,
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