unwise to ascend the slide in darkness because of the high avalanche and rockfall risk in this area. Arrive
there at first light if anything!)
Climb the icefield on the true-right, aiming for the wide couloir at its head that joins the Goldney Ridge. Climb the ridge rock, or drop onto the head of the Goldney Glacier and regain the ridge. Move away from the ridge crest, instead opting to climb the steep shallow gully that leads directly to Low Peak (2212m). If in doubt aim for the large solitary orange rock jutting out of the face, Low Peak is directly behind it. (Grade. 1+)
An alternative route from the Slide, is to climb directly onto the face between Low and Middle Peaks. An obvious steep gully (Hidden Couloir) joins the ridge between these summits. It is avalanche prone, and contains loose rock. It must be frozen! (Grade. 2-)
Once Low Peak is gained and if the Crow névé is not too crevassed, head for the col past Middle Peak, gaining the ridge to High Peak from there. Otherwise climb over Middle Peak.
The first recorded ascent of the low peak was made on the 27 December, 1891 by G.E. Mannering, A.M. Ollivier and W.D. Wood utilising the Goldney Ridge. The first recorded ascent of the high peak was made in 1912 by H. Thompson and J. Gilligan via the Otira Valley. (Grade. 1+)
Note : The Otira Slide may be descended in winter on downhill / telemark skis. You must be an extremely
competent skier, and have good avalanche assessment skills.
6.4 MT ROLLESTON (2275m) approaches from the head of the Bealey River are reached by climbing the slope on the true left of the Bealey River adjacent the start of the "black" ravine (follow a creek initially). Climb towards, and traverse the fault scarp that sidles west under the Goldney Ridge buttress to meet the huge scree / snow slope. Ascend the couloir that joins the Goldney Ridge between Low Peak and the first ridge buttress (prominent low point).
The climb to Low Peak (2212m) is relatively easy going on rock or snow from the ridge.
6.5 The High Peak (2275m) can also be climbed by traversing the ridge from MT PHILISTINE (1967m), a very long climb generally on loose rock, with many obstacles. Most gendarmes can be turned on narrow ledges (catwalks). Beware of cornices in winter to late spring. Be prepared for a forced bivy should your start route to either summit be a "face" climb. Some ropework may be required. (Grade. 2)
6.6 OTIRA FACE - For experienced parties, a diversity of routes may be taken up the 900m Otira Face to the Middle and High Peaks of MT ROLLESTON (2275m). Some of the routes are very difficult, and more often than not, the rock can be quite rotten in zones as determined by the obvious synclined strata!
a) CENTRAL DIRECT - This route, on the right-hand side of the central gut is by far the most popular (not only because it tops out on High Peak). Most of the climb takes place on the prominent buttress that appears to lead directly to High Peak.
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