Back Index Next

5.2 The Low Peak of MT ROLLESTON (2212m) is also climbed by Rome Ridge from the col at the head of the East Crow Glacier. Usually the AVALANCHE PEAK tramping route is used to gain access to the ridge and the East Crow Glacier. In avalanche free conditions it is possible to gain the glacier directly by climbing out of the valley head utilising the narrow gut on the true left. (Grade. 2-)

5.3 Some difficult "direct" face routes are possible to the Low Peak of MT ROLLESTON (2212m) from the East Crow Glacier. These are collectively known as Crow Face Climbs. Most of these utilise narrow couloirs, aretes and shelves, and conditions on each vary greatly depend on season. During winter cornices form on the Rome Ridge over the East Crow, with loose snow avalanches causing some concern. Four popular winter - early summer routes are...

a) LEFT RIB (320m) - Can have a difficult start due to bergschrunds and lack of snow ramps. Move left up the ramp to a large gully (sometimes snow filled), then gain the rocky arete joining the Southwest Ridge of Low Peak. (Grade. 2)

b) CENTRAL DIRECT (400m) - Commences in the same place as Left Rib route, with all the same difficulties. Follow the obvious gully most of the way to the summit; a split near the top allows two different finishes. Rockfall can be a hazard, as is rotten rock top and bottom. (Grade. 2+)

c) RIGHT COULOIR (250m) - A large bergschrund may cause a desperate move at the bottom on a somewhat smooth slab. Venture up the rib into gully that turns to a narrow steep couloir at the top. Follow Rome Ridge to its summit. Some avalanche danger! (Grade. 2)

d) RIGHT GULLY (120m) - The line is in an obvious runnel with a difficult slab start (dependant on height of snow ramp). There can be loose rock in the top half of gully; snow or ice fill certainly assists. Join Rome Ridge to the summit. (Grade. 2)

5.4 To climb MT LANCELOT (2112m), follow the Crow glacial approach (route 5.1) towards MT ROLLESTON as far as the terminal face of the glacier, then turn west and climb to the Jellicoe Ridge and onto the peak. This ridge has some extremely steep unprotected climbing, and should only be tackled in summer conditions. (Grade. 2-)

5.5 MT GUINEVERE (2042m) is not easily accessible from the Crow Valley, but a route may be followed up the bluffs behind the Crow Hut using the interlocking slabs & screes (steer well clear of the waterfall gullies - ever found yourself in a situation of no return??) to the basins below the peak. Before attempting this route survey it from the summit of Lyell Peak (route 6.19). (Grade. 2 for sheer determination)

5.6 AVALANCHE PEAK (1833m) is an easy climb by the scree slide which runs from the valley floor to the main ridge 600m upstream of the hut. (Grade. 1)

5.7 MT STEWART (1934m) may be ascended out of the lower Crow River via the scree (Otira 886035) that leaves the Crow River about 2km upstream from its confluence with the Waimakariri River. Follow the slope around to the south at its head aiming for a narrow couloir/rockgut that ascends onto a spur leading to the 1810m knob (an easier climb with snow). The narrow, craggy South Ridge is then ascended onto MT STEWART. (Ungraded)


Back Index Next