3.9 MARMADUKE DIXON SKYLINE TRAVERSE (2108m, 2168m, 2180m, 2175m). These lumps & bumps form the impressive enclosure of the Marmaduke Dixon glacial névé. Each can be surmounted via their own individual approaches (some very challenging ie. steep loose ice) or can be gained from each other via the very rotten, exposed, craggy joining ridge. The normal starting point (clockwise traverse) is gained at the small col just south of the 2108m peak. Beware of corniced ice towards the east from winter to late summer. (Grade. 2+)

4. UPPER WAIMAKARIRI

WAIMAKARIRI FALLS HUT AREA

The Waimakariri Falls Hut is well located (if not a tad exposed) for most climbs both sides, and at the head of this wide open valley.

4.1 The easiest approach to CARRINGTON PEAK (2010m) is from here. Climb to the Main Divide opposite the hut (ascend scree / snow slopes just north of the small side stream above the hut, then move across sidling true right and up), and traverse it southwards to the summit. A traverse to MT ARMSTRONG is an option available. (Grade. 1+)

4.2 MT ARMSTRONG (2110m) is a short snow climb from Waimakariri Col. A traverse to, and a descent off, CARRINGTON PEAK can also be achieved. The icecap of MT ARMSTRONG can be quite unstable at times, as can the glacier descending on to Waimakariri Col. First recorded ascent by H.R. Reid and A. Anderson, January 1928. (Grade. 1+)

4.3 ANDERSON PEAK (1840m) can be reached from MT ARMSTRONG by descending to the col above Lake Florence and continuing on to the peak. (Grade. 1)

4.4 MT ROLLESTON (2275m) is climbed from the head of the valley near Waimakariri Col. Snow slopes lead up towards the névé of a glacier running north of MT ROLLESTON. Climb the obvious gully joining the Philistine Ridge, then 70m above the névé take the narrow, steep couloir (Sampson's) on the true left. This joins the Southwest Ridge after a climb of 120m. Traverse the short distance to High Peak. The peak may also be approached more directly by the broken rock buttresses of the Philistine Ridge. (Grade. 2-)

4.5 MT LANCELOT (2112m) is reached by climbing to the Jellicoe Ridge opposite the Waimakariri Falls Hut. Take the most direct route possible, slowly sidling southwards to gain the Southeast Ridge and then the summit. Avoid contact with it’s North Ridge (ie. avoid the two snow slopes running west off the ROLLESTON Southwest Ridge). (Grade. 1+)

4.6 MT LANCELOT (2112m) could be attempted by the North Ridge, the ridge linking it to MT ROLLESTON. This ridge is easily gained directly above Waimakariri Falls Hut, however it will be found to be a climb to remember... it is a difficult climb with NO protection on some slabs and around the gendarmes. (Grade. 2-)