The rocky North Ridge to the true left of the col may also be traversed to the peak, however a traverse on the full ridge from the col adjacent the 2108m point tends to become a full day outing. (Grade. 1+)
3.3 MT WAKEMAN (2271m) can be approached directly from the névé of the White Glacier by the wide, steep feeder snowfield below the summit. In early summer this route is avalanche swept, and by late summer a bergschrund and rock cliff bar access midway. Certainly not a Winter route! First ascent by J.P. Wilson and A. Anderson, 16 December 1930. (Grade. 3)
3.4 MT HARPER (2222m) is normally climbed from White Col via the large southern snowslope joining the Southwest Ridge to the summit. (Grade. 1+) It can also be approached by the steep Southwest Face & Ridge (reasonable rock and lines) from White Col (Grade. 3-), or be approached from the lower White Valley by ascending Camp Spur (route 2.11). First ascent by C.K. Ward and A.E. Talbot, March 1913. (Grade. 1+)
3.5 MT DAVIE (2280m) may be climbed by sidling around to the lower Cahill Glacier from Barker Hut. Avoid descending onto the lower rock slabs, instead using snow / scree ramps to reach the small buttress on the true right, descending onto the Cahill Glacier icefall ramp behind it (safer with ice/snow cover). Watch for stone-fall from the bluffs on the southwest. Ascend the head of the glacier to a col, using available snow or ice ramps on the true left. These connect to the craggy South Ridge of Mt Davie. In early summer this route can be cut by a series of huge bergschrunds. (Grade. 3)
3.6 MT SPEIGHT (2116m) can be approached from MT HARPER by fit parties based at Barker Hut. The very craggy Harper / Speight ridge is followed. This traverse involves a steep buttress descent to the col at the head of the Speight snow-field. An alternative route, which avoids the buttress, descends the eastern snow-field of Harper and joins the usual route up the Speight snow-fields. (Grade. 2-)
3.7 A grand traverse of the BLACK RANGE, which can include ascents of HARPER, SPEIGHT, GREENLAW, DAMFOOL, GIZEH, then descending Hut Spur back to Highway 73, is an experience that a light, efficient party could tackle given four consecutive good-weather days. Good camp sites (with water, or snow melt) can be found just below Greenlaw Col, Echo Col, near the tarns above Jordan Creek, and finally at Bealey Spur Hut. The ridge traverse tends to be quite exposed in places, combined with rotten rock, however in most cases obstacles can be avoided on snow slopes below the ridge lines. (Grade. 2-)
3.8 MT MURCHISON (2408m) / WAKEMAN (2271m) TRAVERSE is something a small, early party to either peak could attempt. The major obstacles are to be found on the MT WAKEMAN part of the traverse with a steep, overhanging slab pitch being of profound excitement (ie. dangerous). The traverse as expected takes place on typically rotten rock, with most points of interest being turned on the Wilberforce River side. Not recommended during winter. (Grade. 2)
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