2.11 MT HARPER (2222m) can be climbed by ascending Camp Spur. This is best achieved by following the first side creek met when leaving Carrington Hut towards the cableway. Once through the initial bush bash, keep to the true left of the creek (about 50-60m), some old rock cairns may be found. A steep scree gully is intercepted that leads through a visible gut in the cliffs to reach the easier slopes below the bushline. From here cairns lead to the broad tussock slopes of the ridge (an old trig station will be passed). The final ascent is on snow slopes, a steep rock pinch, then easy ridge to the summit. Some 1994 earthquake damage may prevail on this route. (Grade. 1+)

2.12 MT STEWART (1934m) can be reached by the stream which drains the Jellicoe Ridge 1km downstream of the White River confluence. Moving east onto the tussock slopes once clear of the bushline, head towards the saddle between MTS GUINEVERE and STEWART. Both mountains may be reached via this route on their respective ridges. (Grade. 1+)

3. UPPER WHITE RIVER

BARKER HUT AREA

Barker Hut is located on the exposed buttress at the junction of the White and Marmaduke Dixon glacial valleys. It is the highest hut in the Park (1560m), hence provides an excellent base for climbing a variety of peaks in & out of the Park.

3.1 MT MURCHISON (2408m) at the head of the White Glacier is the highest peak in the area.

a) The usual route follows the glacier (up the true left of the icefall on an ice ramp) almost to Kahutea Col. Stay close beneath the North Ridge, to avoid the crevasse areas and then ascend the last couloir which joins the ridge near the summit. (Note : Wet snow avalanches or stone-fall are not uncommon in this short 60m couloir!). First ascent by C.K. Ward and A.E. Talbot 1913. (Grade. 1+)

b) By late summer the above route may be cut by an icecliff for the width of the White Glacier. In this case a good route follows a scree / snow slope adjacent the ridge linking White Col and Kahutea Col. A cross over point onto the White Glacier névé is generally found about 200m up the ridge. In recent years (February) the White Glacier has been cut by a huge bergschrund for its entire width some 150m below Kahutea Col; rock bypasses are very risky to say the least. (Grade. 1+)

c) The Kahutea ridge can be followed from White Col however be prepared for some very loose, exposed climbs, especially on the final two buttresses. (Grade. 2-)

3.2 MT WAKEMAN (2271m) is approached from the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier. Climb to the col (sometimes corniced to the east) on the spur between Marmaduke Dixon and a feeder névé of the White Glacier. Cross this steep névé to the summit.