1.6 MT SPEIGHT (2116m) is usually climbed from the old Greenlaw Hut site by ascending the spur between Greenlaw and Harper Creeks to the snow-field below the peak. The col at the head of the snow-field, north of the peak, gives good access to the summit ridge (Grade. 1+). Direct climbs on steep, good rock by way of the Speight Buttress can be made from the northern snow-field to the summit. Most of these climbs utilise the prominent ribs leading direct to the summit area. First ascent by R.R. Chester, R.E. McInnes and H.C. Wickett, 23 April 1930. (Grade. 2+)

HARPER CREEK

Harper Creek provides a long, arduous days access to both MTS HARPER (2222m) and SPEIGHT (2116m). Follow the creek until the large amphitheatre of rock and scree under MT HARPER is reached. From this point several spurs and ridges give access to the various snow fields associated with both mountains.

1.7 MT SPEIGHT (2116m) can be reached by its North Ridge from the saddle separating it from MT HARPER (2222m). Gain the large snowfield east of this saddle by climbing out of Harper Creek, up and across the spur bordering Greenlaw Creek. (Grade. 2)

1.8 MT HARPER (2222m) From the head of Harper Creek follow a vague spur south of its southern feeder stream. This eventually will lead to the huge ice / snow-field under the eastern flank of MT HARPER. Ascend the snow until rock is gained at a low saddle, then to the summit on loose rock / ice. (Grade. 2)

1.9 MT SPEIGHT (2116m) may be climbed in an icy winter via the narrow, tall (190m), steep (45-80º) couloir that leads directly to the summit rocks from the head of the northern snow/icefield. The crux is met approximately 70m below the summit where the ice/snow clings to an almost vertical rock-band and a cornice may exist across its head. Descend via the North Ridge (Route 1.7). (Grade. 4-)

1.10 MT SPEIGHT (2116m) may be ascended in winter via the broad snow/ice chute that joins the North Ridge about 150m north of the summit. An avalanche risk could exist on this route. The base of this chute is gained from the head of the northern snow/icefield just to the true-left of the Speight Buttress routes. Descend via the North Ridge (Route 1.7). (Grade. 2+)

2. CARRINGTON AREA

CARRINGTON HUT AREA

2.1 MT CAMPBELL (1829m) is easily ascended from Harman Pass. It is also possible to follow a route up the scree slide opposite Carrington Hut to the Southern Spur which then leads to the summit. (Grade. 1)

2.2 CARRINGTON PEAK (2010m) is climbed by following the prominent Y-shaped gully through the bluffs at the base of the peak some 500m downstream of the