NEW ROUTES

The following additional routes apply to the 5th Edition of the "ARTHUR'S PASS NATIONAL PARK MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE" published in November 2000. They are already included in the 6th Edition available from NZAC or most outdoor shops. New Routes to this later edition are available on the Arthur's Pass Mountaineering website.

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Last Update (26-12-2002)

  • MT SPEIGHT

    • 1.9 MT SPEIGHT (2116m) may be climbed in an icy winter via the narrow, tall (190m), steep (45-80º) couloir that leads directly to the summit rocks from the head of the northern snow/icefield. The crux is met approximately 70m below the summit where the ice/snow clings to an almost vertical rock-band and a cornice may exist across its head. Descend via the North Ridge (Route 1.7). (Grade. 4-)

    1.10 MT SPEIGHT (2116m) may be ascended in winter via the broad snow/ice chute that joins the North Ridge about 150m north of the summit. An avalanche risk could exist on this route. The base of this chute is gained from the head of the northern snow/icefield just to the true-left of the Speight Buttress routes. Descend via the North Ridge (Route 1.7). (Grade. 2+)

  • MT STEWART

    • 5.7 MT STEWART (1934m) may be ascended out of the lower Crow River via the scree (Otira 886035) that leaves the Crow River about 2km upstream from its confluence with the Waimakariri River. Follow the slope around to the south at its head aiming for a narrow couloir/rockgut that ascends onto a spur leading to the 1810m knob (an easier climb with snow). The narrow, craggy South Ridge is then ascended onto MT STEWART. (Ungraded)